Down under in a Wine Glass: New Zealand
After exploring Australia’s famed wine regions, the second act of our antipodean voyage took us across the Tasman Sea to New Zealand — a land where mountains, lakes and vineyards seem to have been composed with a winemaker’s eye for drama and contrast.
Leaving Adelaide, we made a brief stopover in Sydney, just long enough to feel the pulse of the harbor city, before boarding a flight bound for New Zealand’s South Island. Landing in Queenstown, gateway to Central Otago, the southernmost fine-wine region in the world, felt like stepping into a valley surrounded by volcanoes. The air was so crisp it felt almost distilled – the super clean air is one of the secrets (apart from the Ozone hole) why vineyards in New Zealand get so much and very intense sunlight.
Central Otago – General Impressions
Driving through the region toward Bannockburn, we were struck by how arid and rugged the landscape appeared — a mosaic of tawny hills and tussock grass. “Can vines really grow here?” we wondered. 
And yet, this rain-shadowed basin, with its schist and loess soils of volcanic origin, hides some of the most exciting Pinot Noirs in the Southern Hemisphere.
Cromwell
Our base was the serene Marsden Lake Resort on the shores of Lake Dunstan, a long, glacial lake whose moderating influence is key to viticulture in this otherwise austere environment. We had suites in buildings with their own pier for your yacht – we didn’t come with one, however.
The Easter weekend posed a challenge: the wineries were all closed on Sunday. That didn’t stop us from opening a bottle at the resort — Wakefield Wines’ Perriam Cove Pinot Noir, from nearby Cromwell.
A Pinot of great fruit purity, bright acidity, and fine structure — remarkable for a small producer whose roots as a family farm reach back 150 years and who is not widely known. Sadly, a visit had to wait for another time.
Wanaka
The next day we set off northward toward Wanaka, a charming, lakeside town ringed by mountains and favored by skiers, cyclists, and wine lovers alike. The valley felt slightly greener, the vineyards more scattered but thriving. Wanaka’s relaxed vibe — equal parts alpine retreat and adventure hub — made for a perfect interlude before looping back toward Bannockburn, where our true tasting adventure awaited.
Bannockburn: The Heart of Central Otago
Back near Bannockburn, we spent the day visiting two standout wineries — Akarua (owned by the Edmond de Rothschild group) and Te Kano — both celebrated for their Pinot Noir but distinct in expression and philosophy.
Akarua Wines
At Akarua, we began with a trio of wines showcasing the region’s precision and diversity.
Akarua Dry Riesling 2022
Pale lemon-green in color, with pronounced aromas of lime, lemon, grapefruit zest, and a touch of wet stone. On the palate, dry with high acidity, medium alcohol, and a long, refreshing finish — citrus-driven, floral, and delightfully mineral. TBM 90 points.
Akarua Chardonnay 2022
Pale gold, offering stone fruits (peach, nectarine), lemon zest, wet stone, toast, and hazelnut. Dry, medium + acidity, medium body and finish. A refined Chardonnay with Burgundian restraint but a distinct Central Otago edge. TBM 90 points.
Akarua Pinot Noir 2022
Pale purple, with violet, raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, thyme, and toast. Dry, medium + acidity, medium tannins (fine-grained), medium alcohol and body. Juicy red fruit, herbs, and a whisper of oak — a beautiful expression of the region’s signature grape. TBM 91 points.
Te Kano Estate: Thyme, Terroir, and Textures
Our next stop, Te Kano, proved as scenic as it was instructive. The tasting room overlooks the Kawarau River and the rugged folds of the Bannockburn Range, and the hospitality matched the view.
Our host told us a charming detail: early French settlers had introduced wild thyme to the region, and the herb has since carpeted the hillsides. It now subtly perfumes both the air and the wines — a signature note of Central Otago Pinot.
A platter of local cheese and nuts appeared — a welcome lunch — and we began our deep dive into Te Kano’s lineup of Pinot Noirs.
Te Kano Kin Pinot Noir 2022
Pale ruby; aromas of red cherry, cranberry, raspberry, thyme, herbs, toast, and a hint of florals. Dry, medium + acidity, medium- tannins, high alcohol (14 %), medium + body. Juicy red fruits with thyme and toast accents — an elegant, fruit-forward introduction to the range.
TBM 89 points.
Te Kano Life Pinot Noir 2020
A blend from Northburn (schist-based) and Bannockburn parcels. Medium ruby, with red and dark cherry, coffee, dried plum, thyme, and spice. Dry, medium + acidity, medium + tannins, high alcohol, long finish. Complex, balanced and seamless — the warmth of the vintage tamed by structure.
TBM 92 points.
Te Kano Land Waitaki Pinot Noir 2022
From alluvial and limestone soils. Medium ruby; redcurrant, raspberry, cranberry, strawberry, thyme, herbs, toast, wet stone. Dry, medium + acidity, chalky tannins, medium alcohol, medium + body. Vibrant, mineral and expressive.
TBM 92 points.
Te Kano Land Northburn Pinot Noir 2022
The debut from richer schist-and-glacial soils east of Lake Dunstan. Medium ruby; ripe red cherry, raspberry, cranberry, plum, rose petal, thyme, toasted almond, clove. Dry, medium + acidity, silky tannins, medium alcohol. A ripe, polished, and quintessential Central Otago Pinot.
TBM 94 points.
Te Kano Land Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2021
From north-facing alluvial and loess-over-schist soils. Medium ruby; ripe black cherry, red plum, wild raspberry, blackberry, thyme, herbs, vanilla, cedar. Dry, medium + acidity, fine tannins, medium alcohol, medium + body. Rich yet poised, the oak integrated, the fruit radiant — a benchmark Pinot Noir.
TBM 94 points.
Preparing for the next Stage
After our tasting, we returned to Queenstown for a well-earned dinner — the lake shimmering at twilight, the Remarkables etched against a violet sky. It was the perfect close to our Central Otago chapter.
The following morning, our journey continued north to Christchurch, eager to discover what the vineyards of Canterbury would reveal next.
