Italy Archives

September 29, 2024November 1, 2024

2018 Numero Uno

2018 Numero Uno When we hear the word “appassimento” of grapes, we immediately think first of all of Amarone, from Veneto, Italy. After the harvest, the grapes are dried, they may lose 30% or more of their liquid. This concentrates the aromas, the sugars and the acidity.

But – did you know that winemakers used this process centuries earlier than for Amarone? In the Valtellina, Lombardy, Italy, this method of preparing the grapes prior to fermentation was used since the XVIth century for the grape called Chiavennasca. Chiavennasca is better known under its name Nebbiolo, the most noble grape of Italy.

The result of this appassimento are the so-called Sforzato, or Sfursat, wines. The Plozza winery has re-interpreted the appassimento process when it created this 2018 Numero Uno. The wine is made from very old vines (more than 50 years old) from the best vineyard sites of the Valtellina. The grapes for the Numero Uno dry for only two months, followed by fermentation in stainless steel. The wine then matures for 18 to 24 Monate in new barriques of French oak.

The result is a powerful, but elegant wine. Pale ruby color. In the nose, you find complex and delicious aromas of dark red fruit, blackberry compote, redcurrant, black plum and much much more. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, tannins of fine grain that are nicely present but integrated, high alcohol (17%) and full body. The finish is long and very pleasant. A really marvellous wine!
TBM 94 pontos.

December 17, 2023December 17, 2023

2015 Cruà Basilisco

2015 Cruà Basilisco, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG, Basilicata, Italy. Aglianico is a typical grape for the South of Italy. You find it in Taurasi DOC from Campania and additionally in Basilicata where it presents itself as Aglianico del Vulture DOCG, and additionally as Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG.

Basilisco is a traditional winery that has around 20 hectares of vineyards at the majestic Vulture volcano. Their vineyards are at an altitude of 450 to 600 meters above sea level. They face South East, therefore providing the warmth that the vines need without being exposed too much to the South or South West where it may be too hot. Their viticulture is in the “capanno” style, thus jointly with fruit and olive trees – a very traditional style of viticulture. Organic certification.

The 2015 Cruà Basilisco wine is made with grapes from old vines from a single vineyard. Harvesting is entirely manual. Basilisco produced only 1.500 bottles of this wine! This is a powerful and very expressive wine, really good. Intense ruby color. In the nose, complex aromas of dark fruit – particularly black cherry, black plum, blackberry, with notes of eucalyptus and herbs. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, very nicely integrated but noticeable tannins, medium alcohol. Long and pleasant finish. TBM 91 pontos.

September 27, 2023

2013 Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva

The 2013 Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva is a lovely wine, produced by the Produttori del Barbaresco, the cooperative of smaller vintners in Barbaresco. A priest in Barbaresco founded the cooperative in 1958, recognising that the smaller producers only had a chance of surviving if they combined their forces, thus creating the critical mass to produce high quality Barbaresco. The Produttori del Barbaresco now joins some 51 vintners, altogether a total of more than 100 hectares. They produce around 500.000 bottles a year, 50% of which are basic Barbarescos, 20% Langhe Nebbiolo and 30% Barbaresco from the nine classical single-vineyard sites.

Terroir and Winemaking

Single-vineyard wines like this 2013 Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva are only produced in great vintages. The Montestefano vineyard has a total surface of 4.5 hectares, with south-south-east exposure. Its soil is calcareous limestone. 32 days of skin contact, fermentation at 30°C. Wines age for 36 months in oak barrels, followed by bottle aging of another 12 months. In other vintages, this may vary – the 2015 had only 9 months of bottle aging. The Produttori mark total number of bottles produced on the bottles (17.104 in this case, plus 1.448 Magnum bottles). Each bottle shows its individual number (this wine is 2.209). The Produttori del Barbaresco claim that the wine has a potential of 20 years, according to the data sheet.

Barbaresco vs Barolo

Like Barolo, Barbaresco is made 100% from the Nebbiolo grape. The Barbaresco region’s microclimate is a bit warmer than the Barolo region, consequently allowing the grapes to ripen a bit earlier. DOCG requirements for Barbaresco differ a bit from Barolo, taking into account that Barbaresco is ready for consumption earlier than a Barolo.

Description of the Wine

The 2013 Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva shows a ruby color of medium intensity, on the nose you discover complex aromas of black fruit, chocolate, leather and game. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, good body, well integrated firm tannins. The finish is long and very pleasant. TBM 92 points. A lovely Barbaresco, certainly good to drink now but definitely with potential to develop further.

July 22, 2023July 22, 2023

2016 Querciavalle Chianti Classico

The 2016 Querciavalle Chianti Classico is the “workhorse” of the Losi Family – their business card among the Chiantis. They produce several other wines, of course a Chianti Classico Riserva, and in really good vintages also a Gran Selezione (which is spectacular). At the entry level, there is a Querciavalle Vigna della Campana – a red wine on majority Sangiovese grapes, that passes through French oak to have it ready and drinkable more quickly (the year following the vintage). Chianti Classico and Riserva need to spend much more time maturing, which can drain the cash flow. Therefore, it is good to have a wine that can be sold the year following the harvest.

The Losi family has been in the wine business for more than five generations, and when you come to the village, there seems to be one of their cellars under virtually every house. No herbicides and no pesticides, they produce a wine that truly represents the terroir.

The 2016 Querciavalle Chianti Classico has a ruby color with grenade reflexes. The nose is intense and complex, with aromas of red fruit – cherry especially, some spices, as well as a few tertiary notes as leather, smoke and game. On the palate, the wine is dry, with tannins quite present, but well integrated and silky, medium + acidity, a great mouthfeel and a medium-long finish.

Overall, the 2016 Querciavalle Chianti Classico is a great example of a Chianti Classico. Strongly recommended. TBM 91 points.

October 23, 2022October 24, 2022

2020 Etna Bianco

2020 Etna Bianco, Giulia Monteleone, Sicily, Italy.

This wine is made of the Carricante grapes, an autochthonous grape variety of Sicily. The vineyard is situated in the east of the Etna area, where the soil is volcanic.

The wine has straw colour, complex aromas of yellow fruit and some flower in the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity. A fruity wine, with reasonable length.

TBM 88 points.

October 23, 2022October 24, 2022

2020 Anthemis

2020 Anthemis, Giulia Monteleone, Sicily, Italy. This white wine, made of the autochthonous Carricante grape, comes from vineyards on the east side of the Etna, beyond the Alcantara river. Maturation in barrels of 400, 600 and 700 litres (1st, 2nd and 3rd use).

Straw colour. Complex aromas of yellow fruit. On the palate, dry, medium acidity, round and pleasant, very long finish. Great wine.

TBM 91 points.

October 23, 2022October 24, 2022

2019 Rumex

The 2019 Rumex by Giulia Monteleone is a red wine from the Etna area in Sicily, Italy. The soil is entirely volcanic. The vines are pre-phylloxera, not grafted. Made with Nerello Mascalese, an autochthonous grape from Sicily.

Purple to ruby colour. In the nose, the wine shows complex aromas of red fruit, remembering a bit a Nebbiolo. On the palate, the wine is dry, medium acidity, good body and structure, silky and integrated tannins, leaving a round mouthfeel. Beautiful wine.

TBM 92 points.

October 23, 2022October 24, 2022

2019 Qubba

2019 Qubba, Giulia Monteleone, Etna, Sicily, Italy. A beautiful red wine made from old vines of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, two autochthonous grapes from Sicily, and a bit of Alicante (Grenache). The soil is volcanic with clay.

Purple colour, transparent and brilliant. Complex aromas of red fruit in the nose (raspberry, strawberry). O the palate, the wine is dry, with medium-low acidity, tannins silky and well integrated, good structure and body.

TBM 89 points

October 23, 2022October 24, 2022

2019 Etna Rosso

2019 Etna Rosso, Giulia Monteleone, Sicily, Italy. A red wine made in the region below Mount Etna, with volcanic and clay soil. Made with Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, two autochthonous grapes from Sicily.

Purple colour, transparent and brilliant. In the nose, complex aromas of red fruit, strawberry. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium-low acidity, silky tannins. A very nice wine.

TBM 89 points.

October 23, 2022November 9, 2022

2021 Langhe Nascetta

2021 Langhe Nascetta by Diego Conterno is a white wine from Piemonte, made using the autochthonous Nascetta grape. The vineyard has a westerly exposition, below the winery in Monforte d’Alba. Diego Conterno comes from a famous winemaker family. At some point, he had a joint venture with his cousins Claudio and Guido Fantino, but he discontinued the JV in 2000 and started his own winery. The winery is small, it has 7,5 hectares. Harvest is carried out manually. The grapes are then cooled with dry ice, and undergo a maceration for 24 to 36 hours. Thereafter, the must ferments in steel tanks. Limited production of 5.300 bottles. Good ageing potential. Tasted at the Gerstl tasting in Sempach.

The 2021 Langhe Nascetta presents itself in a straw colour, slightly golden. In the nose, tropical fruit dominates – pineapple comes out clearly. Citrus notes as well, grapefruit grind. Slight herbal or flowery notes and a touch of mint. On the palate, it is dry, fruity with a touch of minerals, slight salinity. Good mouthfeel.

TBM 85 points.