Category: Palatinate

2020 Riesling trocken of Dr. Bürklin-Wolf is a dry white wine from the Palatinate, Germany. The Gault Millau guide dubbed the Dr. Bürklin-Wolf winery the “king of dry Riesling”, because this is truly their specialty. They excel in this category. A traditional winery in Wachenheim, with Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze at the helm. She introduced biodynamic principles many years ago, and was one of the very first German wineries to do so. It also was the first winery to become a member of the French association Biodyvin. The estate has around 80 hectares, with several vineyards being classified as Erste Lage or Grosse Lage by the VDP. Wines from these parcels could certainly be sold as Premier Cru or Grand Cru wines, if they wanted to. But they take pride in only using the very best grapes of the classified parcels for the Premier Cru or Grand Cru, whereas they use the remainder to make wines at the village (Ortswein) or Gutswein level. This 2020 Riesling trocken is the “business card” of the winery, their basic Riesling. Thus, a Gutswein which truly shows the excellence of the winery. And that with a very reasonable price tag. Available in Brazil at Primeur Vinhos.

The colour is light straw. In the nose, you have notes of citric fruit, green apple, pear and quince. There is a slight mineral touch. On the palate, the wine is dry, fresh, mineral, and the fruit showing a true Riesling. Highly recommended.

TBM 90 points.

The 2020 Ungeheuer GG Von Winning is a Riesling at the GG (Grosses Gewächs, Grand Cru) level within the VDP classification. Forst is the village in the Palatinate with the highest density of “Grosse Lage” vineyards, and the Forster Ungeheuer comprises undoubtedly some of the best German vineyards for Riesling. Some of its most famous winelovers include Otto von Bismarck and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (who said that “life is too short to drink bad wine”). In a play of words, Bismarck once said that the “Ungeheuer ist ungeheur gut” (the “Monster is unbelievably good”). Tasted at the Gerstl fall tasting in Sempach.

The wine presents itself in straw colour. In the nose, Riesling aromas prevail – yellow fruit, citrus aromas, some flowery notes and herbs. The wine is dry (though not “bone dry”, it has 6.4 gr/l residual sugar) with medium acidity (7.2 gr/l), nice minerality, and gives a great mouthfeel and a long finish. This wine has great potential, it is still young and should be left developing for a few years.

TBM 89 points.

The 2021 WinWin Riesling Von Winning is a very nice wine from the basic “Gutswein” level (in the VDP classification), from the region of Palatinate, Germany. The team of Stefan Altmann follows traditional winemaking styles, fermentation in large wooden barrels without cooling. The WinWin is fermented partly in stainless steel tanks and partly in barrels. The grapes come from vineyards in Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg. Tasted at the Gerstl tasting in Sempach.

This wine shows a straw colour. In the nose, some typical Riesling aromas – apple and citrus fruit dominating. No petrol notes yet, as the wine is very young. On the palate, the wine has a bit of residual sugar (8,7 gr/l) which is nicely balanced by the acidity (8,3 gr/l) of the wine. Due the interaction between acidity and residual sugar makes the wine appear almost dry. This wine gives a pleasant, round mouthfeel and has a long finish. Beautiful young Riesling.

TBM 88 points

The 2018 Gaisböhl Riesling GC of Dr Bürklin-Wolf is one of the flagships of the winery. They one the entire plot that is classified as a Grand Cru, or Grosse Lage, by the VDP. However, they only use a small part of the grapes – only the very best, selected grapes – to make this exceptional Grand Cru Riesling. The remainder is used for the Ruppertsberger Village wines.

Straw colour with slight golden reflexes, this wine boasts aromas of yellow stone fruit, with some floral hints and nice mineral notes. Very complex on the palate, this wine shows its strength. The 2018 had a slightly higher residual sugar than other vintages, but it suits the wine very well. The acidity balances whatever residual sugar can be perceived. Very long finish. This wine is available in Brazil from PRIMEUR Vinhos.

TBM 94 points.

The 2020 Wachenheimer Böhlig Riesling PC is neighbour to some Grand Cru vineyards. Dr Bürklin-Wolf feels that it would also deserve that status, being the top of the Premier Crus they have, and from a very special terroir.

Straw color. In the nose, this wine shows yellow fruit, peach and apricot, perhaps a hint of mirabelle, paired with hints of herbs and a mineral touch. Dry on the palate, with crystal clear acidity, yet creamy and pleasant. Long finish. An excellent wine.

TBM 93 points.

The 2020 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling PC is a wine of the Premier Cru level – VDP Erste Lage, of Dr Bürklin-Wolf. The vineyard that yields the grapes for this wine is a special terroir, with sandstone soils and some basalt.

Straw colour, this wine boasts complex aromas of yellow fruit, peach, citrus, with flintstone and petrol mineral notes. On the palate, it is fresh, almost sharp and precise, yet creamy. Not sure I follow the comparison with a Chablis that Stephan Reinhardt or Robert Parker makes. I do agree that this is a very nice, high quality Premier Cru wine.

TBM 92 points.

The 2020 Wachenheimer Rechbächel Riesling PC of Dr Bürklin-Wolf is a wine of the VDP Erste Lage category, or Premier Cru. Its grapes come only from the classified Rechbächel vineyard in Wachenheim, close to the seat of Dr Bürklin-Wolf. The winery owns the entire 1.6 hectars of this vineyard, so it has a monopoly on this appellation.

Straw color, this wine boasts complex aromas of yellow fruit, especially peach, with herbal and great mineral notes –  flintstone. As Stephan Reinhardt said, this Riesling that is “clearly terroir-driven. Pure and crystalline on the palate, this is a linear, juicy and elegant Riesling with a well-concentrated and decent finish.” (written by him with regard to the 2019 vintage). The 2020 vintage lives up to the same standard.  A great wine.

TBM 93 points.

The 2021 Ruppertsberger Riesling Village by Dr. Bürklin-Wolf is a VDP Ortswein, but the enologist uses some of the grapes from the Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Premier Cru for this wine, improving even more the high quality.

The colour is straw with slight greenish reflexes. Complex aromas of white fruit, pear, and herbs in the nose, joined by mineral notes. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, round, complex, with a nice body. Great wine! The 2020 vintage has been imported into Brazil by PRIMEUR Vinhos.

TBM 91 points.

The 2018 Wachenheimer R Riesling trocken of Dr. Bürklin-Wolf is a Village Riesling had has had extra time to mature – the “R” stands for Reserve. Thus, it is only put on the market with a two-year delay. This shows, since the minerality and the petrol notes are much more pronounced than in the young Rieslings. Technically, this is a wine of the Village, or Ortswein, level. Similar to the Wachenheimer Riesling, the enologist uses part of the grapes of the Premier Cru sites in Wachenheim to make this wine.

The colour is straw with slight golden reflexes. White fruit, apple, white peach and citrus mark the complex aromas, joined by a beautiful mineral petrol note. This wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium body and a long finish. Really a very beautiful wine.

TBM 94 points.