1982 Volnay 1er Cru “Les Caillerets”

1982 Volnay 1er Cru "les Vaillerets"

1982 Volnay 1er Cru “Les Caillerets”, Henri Boillot, Volnay, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France. Henri Boillot is a famous winemaker in Burgundy. The Boillot family began to make wine in the early 1900s. Henri Boillot, grandfather to today’s senior winemaker Henri Boillot, created the winery. Henri Boillot (should I call him jr.?) joined the winery then run by his father Jean Boillot, in 1975. In 2000, they built a new winemaking facility in Meursault. So this 1982 Volnay 1er Cru “Les Caillerets” is from the former winery in Volnay.

It seems that Henri Boillot (jr.) has introduced quite a lot of improvements that have been the basis of today’s fame. His son Guillaume joined the winery in 2008, and they have been responsible for winemaking jointly ever since.

Grenade color. On the nose, the 1982 Volnay 1er Cru “Les Caillerets” shows mainly tertiary aromas, like leather, game, smoke and sous-bois and cigars, with some fruity nose of redcurrant and raspberry. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium alcohol, tannins expressive but well integrated, and a good body. Initially, the finish was a bit short. This improved after the wine had been opened for more than an hour, the finish was rather long and pleasant. A wine that has passed its peak, probably was better about 10 years ago. TBM 89 points.

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1982 Volnay 1er Cru "les Vaillerets"

2000 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

2000 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

2000 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France. Until now, I only tasted few wines of Armand Rousseau, a legend whose reputation hasn’t escaped me. Tonight we are tasting a masterwork of his, and yes, we are convinced it is a truly great wine.

Beautiful ruby color. On the nose, complex and lovely aromas – still some primary ones of red fruit (redcurrant, raspberry, red cherry), some notes of secondary ones (ceder, cigar box) and tertiary aromas like leather, game, mushrooms. On the palate, the 2000 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is dry with medium+ acidity, showing off the aromas we found on the nose, medium alcohol, tannins well integrated but still noticeable, medium+ body. The finish is long and very pleasant. TBM 94 points.

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#armandrousseau #charmeschambertin#charmeschambertin2000 #charmeschambertingrandcru

2000 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

2002 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes

2002 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes is a mature, well-done red Burgundy wine made by Geantet-Pansiot. This domaine was originally created in 1954, after the marriage of Edmond Geantet and Bernadette Pansiot. They began with 7 ha of vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, slowly expanding over the years. Their son Vincent Geantet has been in charge of the winemaking at this domaine since 1989. The 2002 vintage had been a warm, but very good vintage. The malolactic fermentation ended early, and the wine was bottled already in October of that year. When tasting in 2004, Stephen Tanzer criticised that the wine had too strong an oak element – something that we, tasting in 2023, did not find.

Ruby color with a slight grenade reflex, this wine showed beautiful cathedral windows in the glass. We enjoyed this wine in the Manhatta restaurant in New York. They serve the wine in Zalto glasses – very fine and thin, these glasses show the best of the wine. In the nose, there is red fruit, redcurrant, red cherry, some flowery notes. On the palate, the 2002 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes is dry, round, fruity, mineral with nicely integrated tannins. A very elegant wine that has obviously benefited greatly from maturing.

TBM 92 points.

2002 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes Geantet-Pansiot

2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

2019 Pinot Noir Haute Couture

2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir of Domaine Buisson-Charles is a wonderful red Burgundy. Patrick, Cathérine and Louis Essa are making superb wines in Meursault (see my notes on the 2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes), partly from their own vines, partly from grapes purchased. This Bourgogne Pinot Noir comes from two parcels, especially the “Haute Couture” vineyard in Meursault and from Champans in Puligny-Montrachet. The winemaking process follows their standards for Premier Crus. 30% of the grapes are used completely, thus with stems. Since 2016 this wine can be called “Côte d’Or Pinot Noir”, also using the name of the parcel.

Plantation of the parcels is dense, 11.000 vines per hectare. The vines are old – 55 years or older. The yield is about 30 to 40 hl per hectare – quite low for a red wine at regional level. Manual harvest, with sorting already in the vineyards to eliminate minor quality fruit. Pneumatic press. No use of enzymes to clarify the must. Indigenous yeast for fermentation. Maturation using 25% new barrels and barrels five years old. No fining and no filtering before filling.

Purple color. RIch and complex aromas of red fruit in the nose, sour cherry, redcurrant, with hints of some violet flower. On the palate, the wine is dry, with nice freshness, silky tannins and a great mouthfeel. Long finish, very pleasant. The 2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a truly great wine.

TBM 92 points.

2019 Pinot Noir Haute Couture

2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes

2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes Buisson-Charles

2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes is a marvellous white wine from Meursault, Burgundy. I admit that I am guilty of infanticide opening this bottle already. The wine is made from Chardonnay. The fruit comes from 7 parcels. The vines are between 55 and 110 years old (certainly, no question whatsoever whether they can be called old vines, or Vieilles Vignes!). The Vireuils et Meix Chavaux vineyards give freshness, the vineyards Marcausses, Vignes Blanches et Pellans give great body to the wine. Buisson-Charles is a winery run by the Essa family: Patrick Essa, his wife Cathérine and his son Louis Essa.

They cultivate organically their own grapes in Meursault. However, they also purchase some fruit from other regions, especially to make red wines. Grapes for the 2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes are hand-picked. Maturation takes place for 17 months, one year in Burgundy “Pieces” barrels (20% of which are new). No clearing, no filtering. Low yields, 30-50 hl per hectare. This is a dense, great Meursault that will develop its full potential over the coming years. Only 7.950 bottles were produced. It took me quite an effort to convince Patrick Essa to give me one bottle, because they sell to subscribers and have a waiting list…

Golden straw colour. Notes of pear, quince, hazelnut, and a slight buttery note in the nose – very pleasant aromas. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium acidity, a very round mouthfeel. The fruit is showing nicely. Great and pleasant finish. Obviously, with some more patience and a few extra years of maturation in the bottle, this wine will show fantastically. The 2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes is already a great choice now, even in its infant stage.

TBM 93 points.

2020 Meursault Vieilles Vignes Buisson-Charles

2019 Rully Clos de Bellecroix

2019 Rully

2019 Rully Clos de Bellecroix of Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume is a white wine, made from Chardonnay. Rully is an area known for white and red wines. Crémant de Bourgogne, the sparkling wine of the Burgundy area, is also being made with grapes from that area. The soil is of limestone-clay. JB Jessiaume uses grapes from a small parcel of only 0,8 hectares. The harvest of the grapes is manual. Pressing is done without prior destemming. Following short maceration, fermentation of the must takes place in casks. Maturation follows, with 12 months in barrique, whereof 10.-15% are new.

Straw colour, brilliant. In the nose, you find aromas of white fruit, in particular, white peach. Also, there are notes of fresh almond, a very slight hint of butter and a flowery touch. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, a round mouthfeel, and in addition to the aromas noticed in the nose there is a hint of spices. All in all, the 2020 Rully Clos de Bellecroix is a very nice fresh Chardonnay that harmonizes well with fish, shell fish but also with some cheese. Available in Brazil at Primeur Vinhos.

TBM 90-91 points.

2019 Rully Clos de Bellecroix
2019 Rully Clos de Bellecroix Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

2019 Santenay “Clos du Haut Village” Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

2019 Santenay Clos du Haut Village

2019 Santenay “Clos du Haut Village” of Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume is a red wine from Burgundy. It is made applying biodynamic principles. The winery works with selected vintners whose grape production they supervise, as if they were their own vineyards.

This Santenay Village wine shows a rubi colour with some violet reflexes. In the nose, very pleasant and rather intense aromas of red fruit, like blue plum, raspberry, blueberry and red currant, with a touch of violet flower. In the palate, the red fruit shows itself nicely, the wine is dry, with medium acidity and silky tannins, quite round and with a long finish. This wine is still young, but ready to be enjoyed in its current fruit phase. It clearly has great potential, so if you want to store it for several years, there will be no problem. In Brazil, it is available at PRIMEUR Vinhos.

TBM 92 points.

2019 Santenay Clos du Haut Village

2020 Chardonnay Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay JB Jessiaume

 

The 2020 Chardonnay Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume is a wonderful white Burgundy wine. It is made with Chardonnay grapes from the Santenay region, manually harvested. Gently pressed with whole stems, the must is decanted and then put to fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Maturation 12 months 50% in cuves and 50% in barrels. Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume is a young winery that is based on old family tradition.

Straw colour, with greenish reflexes. In the nose, aromas of white fruit, apple, some citric notes and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is dry and fresh, with a great mouthfeel and a nicely long finish. Great wine at an excellent price-quality-relationship. Available in Brazil at PRIMEUR.

TBM 88 points.

2020 Chardonnay JB Jessiaume
2020 Chardonnay JB Jessiaume

2019 Volnay Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

2019 Volnay Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

This 2019 Volnay is a red wine from Burgundy at the “Village” level, made by Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume. The Jessiaume family in Santenay has a long history of wine making. They used to own the Domaine Jessiaume but at some point had to sell. Not giving up, Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, together with his brother Stan and his father Marc Jessiaume created a new, small winery that is making some fantastic wines.

Deep purple color. Complex aromas of red fruit in the nose, with some sous-bois. Notes of raspberry, cherry, red currant and blue plum. On the palate, the wine is dry, fruity, with medium-low acidity and very gentle, silky tannins.  A real pleasure. I had it with a plate of venison… Pinot Noir harmonises wonderfully with game dishes. A great wine that shows that Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume is doing a great job in wine making. A name to be remembered.

TBM 94 points.

2019 Volnay Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

2020 Givry 1er Cru “Pied de Chaumes” Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

2020 Givry 1er Cru Pied de Chaumes

After tasting this 2020 Givry 1er Cru Pied de Chaumes, made by Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, I understand why King Henry IV chose the Givry 1er Cru as his favourite wine! Well, he didn’t exactly taste this wine….

Ruby colour with slight violet reflexes. In the nose, red dark fruit – blueberry, plum, dark cherry. A touch of vanilla. On the palate, the wine is dry, round, with medium-low acidity and velvety tannins that are nicely integrated. Long and pleasant finish. A great, elegant wine. Ready to enjoy now, but certainly will improve even more over the next 5 to 10 years. Available in Brazil at @vinhos.primeur of @elainelencastre!

TBM 92 points.

2020 Givry 1er Cru Pied de Chaumes