Down Under in a Wine Glass: Australia and New Zealand I
Part I: A Journey through Australia’s Vineyards
For a European, Australia and New Zealand aren’t exactly weekend destinations. Visiting them requires a deliberate commitment of time, planning, and purpose. My youngest daughter lives in Hong Kong—close enough to count as “in the neighborhood” by Antipodean standards—and though not a wine professional, she shares my enthusiasm for the grape. So I proposed a plan: meet in Hong Kong, catch up, then fly south and explore Australian wine country together. She agreed. Adventure uncorked.
After three days in Hong Kong—getting a feel for her city and meeting James Suckling at his stylish Wine Central—we jetted off to Melbourne. The flight was uneventful but long, arriving late into the night. We picked up our rental car (an electric model, which added a sprinkle of challenge), and bunked at the Holiday Inn by the airport. Not glamorous, but efficient.
13 April 2025 – Geelong and Yarra Valley
Sunday, as it turned out, posed a problem—many wineries were closed. A bit of sleuthing brought up Curlewis, a boutique operation in Geelong that came highly recommended. 
Off we went, Google Maps as our guide. The roads were charming but slow—later we discovered the “avoid highways” setting was the culprit. The route was scenic but dry, with scrubby fields that made us question the viability of viticulture in this arid stretch. But as we neared Curlewis, the landscape softened. Vines emerged. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—cool-climate varietals—thrived here under drip irrigation.
Curlewis, Geelong
Curlewis offered a delightfully personal experience. Owners Leesa Freyer and Steve Marasco 
poured the wines themselves. Tastings came in sleek “test tubes” – 30ml samples just right for swirling, sniffing, and sipping. Standouts included a crisp, elegant Chardonnay and an expressive Estate Pinot Noir. We bought a bottle of each.
Nestled between St. Philip Bay and the Bass Strait, Curlewis benefits from sea breezes and cooler air—ideal conditions for fine wine, though not entirely immune to the challenges of summer humidity. Steve explained the constant threat of fungal disease and the need for routine sprays (a copper-sulfur blend, keeping within the organic playbook).
Château Yering
In the afternoon, we headed for the Yarra Valley, aiming for the historic Château Yering estate, conveniently next door to the Yering Station winery. This time we trusted the highway—my map showed an hour’s gain over my daughter’s more scenic suggestion. The drive took us past eucalyptus forests and sporadic vineyards. The land still looked parched, but the promise of wine kept us curious.
Château Yering lived up to its name—grand, comfortable, and with just the right touch of old-world flair. We checked into a spacious suite, complete with balcony and sitting room. A tasting at Yering Station was included, so we ambled over with high hopes. 
Alas, the experience fell flat. A curt, disengaged hostess poured the wines with the enthusiasm of someone reading parking regulations. We stuck to the basic range—after all, if a winery can’t impress with its entry-level offerings, there’s little hope for the rest. Some wines showed volatile acidity—think faint nail polish remover. Drinkable, but uninspired.
Dinner, however, saved the evening. The restaurant at Château Yering delivered beautifully. Guided by a sharp sommelier, we selected Yarra Yering’s enigmatic “Dry Red Wine No. 2”—a mysterious blend crafted anew each vintage. Rich, layered, and seductive, it was a wine that demanded attention and deserves its own story.
Cool Climates, Bold Characters – A Day in Mornington Peninsula
14 April 2025 – Yabby Lake
The call of the cool climate continues—this time from Mornington Peninsula, a coastal gem known for elegant Pinot Noir and refined Chardonnay. Our day began with a private tour at Yabby Lake, graciously arranged and guided by Thomas, their third winemaker. 
From the moment we stepped into the winery, it was clear this was more than just a scenic detour—it was a masterclass in precision and passion.
Thomas walked us through the full winemaking journey: from grape reception to destemming, from open-top fermenters where the cap is punched down by hand, to the gentle pressing and finally, the sanctum of barrel aging. Along the way, he pulled samples directly from the barrel—raw, evolving expressions of the fruit’s potential. One particularly interesting aspect? Yabby Lake vinifies Pinot Noir grapes trucked in from Tasmania—meticulously chilled and ferried across the strait to preserve their delicate character. Cooler still than Mornington, Tasmania’s slow-ripening fruit yields Pinot with layered depth and moderate alcohol—nuanced and precise.
The tour ended in the lab, where Thomas gave us a glimpse of the winery’s scientific backbone. Here, ferments are monitored like newborns—every pH shift and sugar drop carefully tracked to guide them to graceful maturity.
After the technical deep dive, it was time to taste. Sandra, 
our host for the tasting, was not only warm and welcoming but also impressively informed (WSET Level 3-certified, as it turns out). She walked us through a series of Yabby Lake’s wines, tracing the origin of each to its specific parcel. Terroir is no marketing gimmick here—it’s the cornerstone. From vibrant, citrus-laced Chardonnays to the finely structured Pinots and a spicy Shiraz from their Heathcote sister estate, each wine told a clear, confident story. (Tasting notes to follow.)
But Mornington Peninsula had more to pour.
Paringa Estate
Next stop: Paringa Estate, Yabby Lake’s only peer in the region’s top echelon according to the WSET Diploma materials. Paringa’s origin story is a classic tale of vision—and a touch of madness. In 1984, geography teacher Lindsay McCall bought an old orchard with a bold idea: to plant Shiraz in what many deemed too cool a climate for ripening it. Conventional wisdom said he was dreaming. But Lindsay wasn’t chasing convention.
Planted on a north-facing slope using Lyre trellising to catch every ray of sun, his vines not only survived but thrived. Though Paringa’s Shiraz may not have the sun-saturated opulence of a Barossa bottle, it delivers finesse and aromatic complexity in spades. It was a gamble that paid off—in 1996, Lindsay left the classroom for the cellar, full-time.
At the estate, we were welcomed by Nick Justice, the eloquent and passionate head of the Cellar Door. Even better, we had the rare privilege of meeting Lindsay himself—humble, sharp, and evidently still deeply hands-on. After a quick chat about the vintage, he tipped his hat, jumped into his truck, and rumbled off to tend to the day’s tasks. At 73, the fire clearly still burns.
Paringa’s wines are structured in three tiers:
Peninsula Series – crafted from leased plots across the region
Paringa Estate Series – fruit from their own estate vineyards
Single Vineyard Selection – the pinnacle, made only in exceptional years
Each wine, regardless of tier, displayed clarity, balance, and depth—a testament to decades of dedication. Detailed tasting notes will follow, but suffice to say: this is a winery that lets the land speak, with just enough winemaker intervention to coax out its clearest voice.
Yarra Elegance & Penfolds Power: From Cool-Climate Chardonnay to Australia’s Iconic Reds
15 April 2025 – Oakridge Winery, Yarra Valley; Adelaide
After our cool-climate explorations in Mornington Peninsula, the next day swept us into the heart of Yarra Valley for a Chardonnay Masterclass at Oakridge Winery. But before the first swirl of wine, we were greeted by a scene straight out of a luxury lifestyle magazine—a dazzling convoy of Ferraris preparing for a regional winery rally. It was an unexpected collision of horsepower and terroir, and the energy was infectious. 
At Oakridge, technique and terroir come together with quiet confidence. The team works with wild yeast, cold fermentations, and a gentle hand to craft Chardonnays that are precise, textural, and bright with fruit. Many of the grapes are hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, and barrel-fermented—yet the oak is handled with restraint. Only 25–30% of the wines undergo malolactic fermentation to keep the acidity lively, and bâtonnage in stainless steel vessels adds creaminess without heaviness. While a few cuvées leaned a touch oak-forward, others were crisp and beautifully balanced—expressions of tropical fruit, citrus, and freshness.
A light lunch at a neighboring winery allowed us to soak in the Yarra’s autumn palette—burnt orange vines sweeping across rolling hills. Then it was back to the road: Melbourne Airport, en route to Adelaide.
Cue chaos at Adelaide airport, but Nice Dinner.
The rental car experience—through a company optimistically named “Bargain”—was less than streamlined. Confusion reigned, shuttles came and went like ghosts, but somehow we secured our SUV and made it to the Hilton Hotel just in time for dinner with Priscilla Hennekam—Brazilian-born wine consultant, influencer, and Australian wine insider. Over the stunning 2018 Tolpuddle Pinot Noir from Tasmania, Priscilla shared local intel—especially helpful given the Good Friday closures ahead in McLaren Vale. Smart tips, good conversation, and a memorable bottle—what more could we ask?
16 April – VIP Access at Penfolds’ Magill Estate
The next morning, the tone shifted from boutique to legendary as we arrived at Penfolds Magill Estate, just outside Adelaide. 
This visit wasn’t just a tasting—it was a tour de force. From Riesling to Grange, we experienced a masterclass in Australian winemaking heritage.
The Penfolds story begins back in 1844 when Mary and Dr Christopher Penfold arrived in Australia, and purchased a 500 acre estate where they created a medical surgery, vineyard, orchard and crops of wheat, barley and oats. That mixed farm was called the Grange.
In 1931, young Max Schubert came as a laboratory assistant, and he was transferred to Magill Estate in 1935 to help in winemaking. In the 1950s, he made a trip to Bordeaux, where his idea to create a “Grange Hermitage” was born. He began in 1951. Management was not very convinced, ordered him to stop the project in 1957, but Max Schubert secretly continued producing that wine.
He managed to convince a family member, Jeffrey Penfolds Hyland, who became his co-conspirator. Together, they managed to convince management to approve the production of the Grange Heritage, in time for the 1960 harvest. While Penfolds’ heart now beats mainly in Barossa, Magill is where the legend lives. The lineup:
White Wines
Clare Valley Riesling – Cellar Reserve (2021)
Stainless steel fermented, crackling with pronounced aromas of lime, lemon, lime zest, grapefruit, grapefruit zest and wet stone. Bone dry, razor-sharp acidity, medium+ finish. Textbook Clare Valley Riesling. TBM 91 points.
Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling
A Riesling with typical lime, lemon and citrus aromas, with a slightly gentler touch—tangerine and citrus blossom dominate. Medium (+) acidity. A beautifully aromatic and refreshing take on Riesling. TBM 91 points.
Bin 311 Chardonnay (2023)
Fruit from Tumbarumba (NSW), Tasmania, and Adelaide Hills. It seeks to express the style of a fruity cold-climate Chardonnay, rather than being terroir-driven. Depending on the vintage, fruit from other regions will be blended in to match the house style. Fermented in 225L oak barrels (30% new) with lees stirring, and matured 8 months in oak barrels, the wine opens with aromas of lemon, apple, pear and quince, along with floral and pear notes, underscored by lemon and subtle oak. Slight flinty note. Creamy texture, medium acidity. Elegant and approachable. TBM 92 points.
Reserve Bin 16A Chardonnay (2016) – Adelaide Hills
This Chardonnay is based upon fruit from Piccadilly Valley to Birdwood in Adelaide Hills, vineyards at an altitude of up to 611 meters. Thus, cold climate influences from altitude. The must is completely fermented in barrels and undergoes 100% malolactic conversion. This gives the wine a creamy, almost buttery note. Aromas of grapefruit, lime, bitter lemon, grapefruit zest, with a flinty and oyster note. A mineral Chardonnay, refined with judicious oak. Balanced, expressive, and deeply satisfying. TBM 93 points.
All Penfolds whites are produced at their Barossa facility, blending precision with polish.
Then came the reds, and Penfolds flexed its muscle:
Bin 23 Pinot Noir (2023)
Mostly destemmed Tasmanian fruit, with a touch of whole bunch. 8 months in French oak. Aromas of red cherry, red plum, raspberry, redcurrant – rather ripe fruit, but without turning to compote or jam, some notes of cigar box. Medium tannins, quite smooth, medium alcohol. This wine shows more body and structure than a classic European Pinot Noir, but without being heavy. Medium+ finish. Confident and compelling. TBM 92 points.
Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz (2018) – Barossa Valley
Bold and iron-rich, from soils packed with character. The fruit goes into static fermenters with header boards. After basket pressing, the wine continues fermenting and maturing in French and American oak (50% new, partly hogshead and partly puncheons of 500 litres) for 12 months. Aromas of blueberry, blackberry, juniper berry aromas, some pencil shavings, hints of roasted nuts. High but silky tannins, high alcohol—though possibly higher than the 14.5% label suggests (Australia permits a tolerance of 1.5% abv). Long finish. A classic, intense Barossa Valley Shiraz. TBM 94 points.
St. Henri Shiraz (2017)
The St Henri Shiraz is a multi-district blend from South Australia, with Shiraz fruit from Barossa Valley, Eden Valley, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Robe and Bordertown, and Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with header boards at Nuriootpa, some components are vinified at Magill Estate. The wine is matured for 12 months in large old vats to avoid imparting oak aromas and giving a round, but more elegant style. High tannins, chalky. Beautiful and vivid fruit – elderberry, mulberry and bramble, notes of liquorice, notes of roasted nuts. High alcohol, full body, long finish. Elegant power. TBM 95 points.
Bin 389 – “Baby Grange” (2022)
This is Australia’s third most collected wine (probably after Grande and Hill of Grace) —and it shows. Again a multi-district blend from South Australia: Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway, Robe, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Wrattonbully and Clare Valley. A Cabernet–Shiraz blend, fermented mainly in stainless steel tanks with header boards, but some components may ferment completely in barrel. Aged for 12 months in American oak hogsheads with 20-30% new oak and one- and two-year-old oak including ex-Grange barrels. Dark fruit (black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant) compote, with notes of chocolate, cedar, vanilla, medium acidity. High alcohol, high but fine grained tannins. Full body, long finish. Complex, layered, and deeply satisfying. TBM 96 points.
RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz (2020)
This wine is a “pure Barossa Valley” Shiraz, with fruit stemming from the Kalimna, Koonunga Hills, Moppa, Marananga and Ebenezer vineyards. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks with header boards, fermentation completed in barrels. In some vintages, vinification may be carried out partly at Magill Estate. Maturation 12 to 15 months in partly new (50-70%) French hogsheads (300 litres). Pronounced aromas of dark red and blue fruit, dark plum, blackberry, elderberry, black cherry, liquorice and pencil shavings. Dry, medium acidity, high tannins fine grained, high alcohol, full body and long finish. A marvellous wine that will improve with age, integrating the tannins even more and developing wonderful tertiary aromas. TBM 96 points.
Superblend Bin 802.B
This Superblend is made from two great wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 and the Grange. The blend consists of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Shiraz, which are co-fermented. There is also a Superblend Bin 802.A where the fruit is fermented separately and only blended following maturation. The wine matures in French oak for 15 months. Beautiful aromas, a bombastic wine. TBM 97 points.
Grange (2018)
The 2018 Grange is a monster. Shiraz from the best vineyards, with just a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (normally less than 5%, never more than 14%). Shiraz fruit comes from Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale and Magill Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon from Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and Padthaway.
Fermentation takes place in 10 tonne stainless steel tanks with header boards at Nuriootpa, 3 to 7 tonne open fermenters with wax lined/wooden header boards at Magill Estate. All components complete their fermentation in barrels. Maturation 18 to 20 months in American oak hogsheads (300 litres), followed by a two-year settling period in bottle.
Pronounced aromas of elderberry, dark cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, dried plum, dark chocolate, vanilla and so much more… Dry, medium acidity, high tannins that will benefit from more integration. High alcohol, full body, long finish. This wine is gigantic. Leading critics gave it 100 points. For me, as the tannins need to integrate a bit more, TBM 99 points.
Barossa Bound: From Kangoroo Steak to John Duval Elegance
Following our grand tasting at Penfolds, we hit the road toward the iconic Barossa Valley. The drive was striking—vast dry fields stretched endlessly, punctuated only by groves of eucalyptus. It felt like crossing a sunburned desert until we reached Tanunda, the beating heart of Barossa.
Our base: the Barossa Weintal Hotel—technically a motel, but well-equipped and conveniently located. We took the afternoon to prep for the coming days, reflect on the Penfolds and other prior experiences, and unwind. Dinner? A local gem where I sampled kangaroo steak for the first time—lean, tender, and unexpectedly refined, with venison vibes. We sipped a relaxed local red (no notes, just enjoyment).
Tasting John Duval Wines at Artisans of Barossa
With several wineries closed to the public and others shuttered for the holiday, we headed to Artisans of Barossa—a collaborative cellar door for boutique producers who don’t offer on-site tastings. While we couldn’t visit John Duval Wines in person, we were able to explore their lineup, which did not disappoint.
2023 Plexus White (41% Marsanne, 34% Roussanne, 25% Viognier)
Southern Rhône in spirit, but born in Barossa Valley. According to John Duval, 2023 marked the third La Niña vintage in a row—cool, late, and ideal for aromatic whites. The harvest took place on 3 March in Marananga, for Marsanne, on 16 March in Kalimna for Roussanne, and on 13 April for Viognier. The cooler year prompted a touch more Viognier in the blend to boost texture and aromatic lift.
2022 Compono Cabernet Sauvignon
The fruit for this wine stems from the following regions: 64% in Moppa (Barossa Valley, 340m elevation), and 36% Eden Valley (adjacent to Henschke’s Hill of Grace and Edelstone vineyards).
The winemaking – citing John Duval’s website – consisted of small batch fermentation in open top stainless steel fermenters. Twice daily plunging and/or pump overs with skin contact for 8 days. Maturation in French oak hogsheads (20% new) for 15 months. 2022 Plexus Red (43% Shiraz, 41% Grenache, 16% Mataro)
John Duval chose to launch the label with this wine owing to his love of old vine expressions of Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre. It features as one of only 100 wines in the Langtons Classification of Australian Wine. The Shiraz component stems from old vineyards at Krondorf, Marananga and Ebenezer. Grenache comes from vineyards at Tanunda, Moppa and Ebenezer, and Mourvèdre from Light Pass and Ebenezer. The parcels of fruit were fermented separately, some with a submerged cap in small open stainless-steel fermenters. A portion of the Grenache ferment included whole bunches to accentuate the savoury aspects of the variety. Maturation of the wines takes place in barrel for 15 months, with 10% in new fine grain French oak hogsheads and the balance in older seasoned hogsheads.
Clear medium ruby colour. Pronounced aromas of ripe fruit – dark cherry, cranberry, blueberry, ripe blue plum, blue plum compote, smoky notes, some cedar wood, tobacco, and a hint of eucalyptus. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium tannins fine grained, high alcohol, medium (+) body and a long finish. The flavors are of pronounced intensity, boasting ripe dark cherry, ripe blue plum, blue plum compote, cinnamon, smoky notes, dark chocolate. This is an outstanding wine, with great complexity of aromas, very good concentration, a good balance between the ripe and cooked fruit on the one hand and the acidity and the alcohol on the other. All of these elements make the wine much better than acceptable or good. The tannins integrate very well, and are really smooth. This merits, in my opinion, to consider this wine as being of outstanding quality. TBM 94 points.
Final Thoughts
Even without a visit to the winery, John Duval’s wines spoke volumes. From the Rhône-inspired Plexus white to the brooding, elegant red blend, each bottle showcased a master’s touch. The Compono Cabernet stands out—pure Barossa sophistication—and the Plexus red confirmed why Duval is still one of Australia’s winemaking greats.
To be continued…