Sauvignon Blanc – tasting three different styles today:
– the Marlborough “Golden Mile” Sauvignon Blanc, by Georges Michel
– the Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc from the Western Cape, South Africa, by Neil Ellis, and
– the Sancerre, by Paul Doucet.
A wonderful experience. The three wines show quite different characteristics, thus showing the great variety in styles that Sauvignon Blanc permits to achieve.
Marlborough
The 2022 Golden Mile Sauvignon Blanc by Georges Michel shows a pale lemon color. The clean nose boasts aromas that are very typical for a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Asparagus and grassy aromas (“capsicum”) are pronounced, along with passion fruit, gooseberry and lemon. Notes of elderflower and a hint of wet stone and brioche round of the olfactory experience. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium alcohol and medium body. It shows medium + intensity of flavours of gooseberry, asparagus, passion fruit, minerality and a hint of bread. The medium + finish is pleasant. A very good, typical – “text book” – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. TBM 91 points.
South Africa
The 2022 Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc has a pale lemon color. It boasts aromas of gooseberry, passion fruit, herbal notes, lemon, pear, green apple. A note of wet stone and brioche completes the olfactory sensation. On the palate, the wine is dry, with high acidity, medium alcohol and medium body. Medium intensity of flavours show gooseberry, green apple, lemon, passion fruit, rounded off with some minerality and brioche notes. The wine has a medium finish. A pleasant Sauvignon Blanc, less bold than the Marlborough one, with a good complexity and fine balance between flavours, acidity and alcohol. It lacks a bit of length to be considered outstanding. TBM 89 points.
Sancerre
The 2023 Sancerre by Paul Doucet is a beautiful wine. Pale lemon color, its clean nose shows medium + intensity aromas of lemon, melon, pear, green apple. A hint of asparagus, notes of wet stone and brioche complete the olfactory experience. On the palate, the wine is dry, with crisp, medium + acidity, medium alcohol and medium body. Its medium intensity flavours show lemon, melon, pear, a hint of asparagus, minerality and brioche. Overall, a fine, subtle version of Sauvignon Blanc, elegant and pleasant. I’d call it a “text book” Sancerre. TBM 92 points.
When visiting Penfolds’ Magill Estate, I had the great pleasure of tasting many different wines – not just Shiraz, but also two brilliant Chardonnays. As is the case for all white wines, the entire cellar process takes place in Penfolds’ cellars in Barossa Valley. The fruit for the two Chardonnays comes partly from New South Wales, partly from Tasmania – which has a cold climate, therefore, emphasising fruit and acidity – and Adelaide Hills.
Bin 311 Chardonnay (2023)
Fruit from Tumbarumba (NSW), Tasmania, and Adelaide Hills. It seeks especially to express the style of a fruity cold-climate Chardonnay, rather than being terroir-driven. This results in a fresh and fruity wine, with pleasant minerality. Depending on the vintage, fruit from other regions will be blended in to match the house style. Fermented in 225L oak barrels (30% new) with lees stirring, and matured 8 months in oak barrels, the wine opens with aromas of lemon, apple and quince, along with floral and pear notes, underscored by subtle oak. Slight flinty note. Creamy texture, medium acidity. Medium alcohol, medium (+) body, nice medium (+) finish. Elegant and approachable. TBM 92 points.
Penfolds Chardonnay
Reserve Bin 16A Chardonnay (2016) – Adelaide Hills
This Chardonnay is based upon fruit from Piccadilly Valley to Birdwood in Adelaide Hills, vineyards at an altitude of up to 611 meters. Thus, the vines are exposed to cold climate influences from altitude. This leads to a fresh and fruity wine, with good acidity.
The must is completely fermented in barrels and undergoes 100% malolactic conversion. This gives the wine a creamy, almost buttery note. Therefore, the wine has great texture and mouthfeel. Pronounced aromas of grapefruit, lime, bitter lemon, grapefruit zest, with a flinty and oyster note. Dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) body and a medium (+) finish. A mineral Chardonnay, refined with judicious oak. Balanced, expressive, and deeply satisfying. TBM 93 points.
When visiting Penfolds during my trip to Australia and New Zealand, I had the great pleasure of tasting two of their Rieslings. Clare Valley and Eden Valley are probably the best known regions for Riesling in Australia. The solar radiation, due to latitude and the whole in the ozone layer, imparts some specific aromas to Rieslings from this area. In particular, both of these Rieslings had pronounced aromas of lime. Lime is said to be probably the most distinctive aroma in Riesling that sets Clare Valley and Eden Valley apart from other Riesling regions, like Germany. Other aromas – lemon, grapefruit, grapefruit zest, wet stone or kerosene aromas, are typical for Riesling everywhere, but in Australia, lime is the aroma that stands out.
Clare Valley Riesling – Cellar Reserve (2021)
Stainless steel fermented, crackling with pronounced aromas of lime, lemon, lime zest, grapefruit, grapefruit zest and wet stone. Bone dry, razor-sharp acidity, medium+ finish. Textbook Clare Valley Riesling. TBM 91 points.
Penfolds Rieslings – Clare and Eden Valley: Eden Valley
Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling
A Riesling with typical lime, lemon and citrus aromas, with a slightly gentler touch—tangerine and citrus blossom dominate. Medium (+) acidity. A beautifully aromatic and refreshing take on Riesling. TBM 91 points.
Down Under in a Wine Glass: Australia and New Zealand I
Part I: A Journey through Australia’s Vineyards
For a European, Australia and New Zealand aren’t exactly weekend destinations. Visiting them requires a deliberate commitment of time, planning, and purpose. My youngest daughter lives in Hong Kong—close enough to count as “in the neighborhood” by Antipodean standards—and though not a wine professional, she shares my enthusiasm for the grape. So I proposed a plan: meet in Hong Kong, catch up, then fly south and explore Australian wine country together. She agreed. Adventure uncorked.
After three days in Hong Kong—getting a feel for her city and meeting James Suckling at his stylish Wine Central—we jetted off to Melbourne. The flight was uneventful but long, arriving late into the night. We picked up our rental car (an electric model, which added a sprinkle of challenge), and bunked at the Holiday Inn by the airport. Not glamorous, but efficient.
13 April 2025 – Geelong and Yarra Valley
Sunday, as it turned out, posed a problem—many wineries were closed. A bit of sleuthing brought up Curlewis, a boutique operation in Geelong that came highly recommended. Off we went, Google Maps as our guide. The roads were charming but slow—later we discovered the “avoid highways” setting was the culprit. The route was scenic but dry, with scrubby fields that made us question the viability of viticulture in this arid stretch. But as we neared Curlewis, the landscape softened. Vines emerged. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—cool-climate varietals—thrived here under drip irrigation.
Curlewis, Geelong
Curlewis offered a delightfully personal experience. Owners Leesa Freyer and Steve Marasco poured the wines themselves. Tastings came in sleek “test tubes” – 30ml samples just right for swirling, sniffing, and sipping. Standouts included a crisp, elegant Chardonnay and an expressive Estate Pinot Noir. We bought a bottle of each.
Nestled between St. Philip Bay and the Bass Strait, Curlewis benefits from sea breezes and cooler air—ideal conditions for fine wine, though not entirely immune to the challenges of summer humidity. Steve explained the constant threat of fungal disease and the need for routine sprays (a copper-sulfur blend, keeping within the organic playbook).
Château Yering
In the afternoon, we headed for the Yarra Valley, aiming for the historic Château Yering estate, conveniently next door to the Yering Station winery. This time we trusted the highway—my map showed an hour’s gain over my daughter’s more scenic suggestion. The drive took us past eucalyptus forests and sporadic vineyards. The land still looked parched, but the promise of wine kept us curious.
Château Yering lived up to its name—grand, comfortable, and with just the right touch of old-world flair. We checked into a spacious suite, complete with balcony and sitting room. A tasting at Yering Station was included, so we ambled over with high hopes.
Alas, the experience fell flat. A curt, disengaged hostess poured the wines with the enthusiasm of someone reading parking regulations. We stuck to the basic range—after all, if a winery can’t impress with its entry-level offerings, there’s little hope for the rest. Some wines showed volatile acidity—think faint nail polish remover. Drinkable, but uninspired.
Dinner, however, saved the evening. The restaurant at Château Yering delivered beautifully. Guided by a sharp sommelier, we selected Yarra Yering’s enigmatic “Dry Red Wine No. 2”—a mysterious blend crafted anew each vintage. Rich, layered, and seductive, it was a wine that demanded attention and deserves its own story.
Cool Climates, Bold Characters – A Day in Mornington Peninsula
14 April 2025 – Yabby Lake
The call of the cool climate continues—this time from Mornington Peninsula, a coastal gem known for elegant Pinot Noir and refined Chardonnay. Our day began with a private tour at Yabby Lake, graciously arranged and guided by Thomas, their third winemaker. From the moment we stepped into the winery, it was clear this was more than just a scenic detour—it was a masterclass in precision and passion.
Thomas walked us through the full winemaking journey: from grape reception to destemming, from open-top fermenters where the cap is punched down by hand, to the gentle pressing and finally, the sanctum of barrel aging. Along the way, he pulled samples directly from the barrel—raw, evolving expressions of the fruit’s potential. One particularly interesting aspect? Yabby Lake vinifies Pinot Noir grapes trucked in from Tasmania—meticulously chilled and ferried across the strait to preserve their delicate character. Cooler still than Mornington, Tasmania’s slow-ripening fruit yields Pinot with layered depth and moderate alcohol—nuanced and precise.
The tour ended in the lab, where Thomas gave us a glimpse of the winery’s scientific backbone. Here, ferments are monitored like newborns—every pH shift and sugar drop carefully tracked to guide them to graceful maturity.
After the technical deep dive, it was time to taste. Sandra, our host for the tasting, was not only warm and welcoming but also impressively informed (WSET Level 3-certified, as it turns out). She walked us through a series of Yabby Lake’s wines, tracing the origin of each to its specific parcel. Terroir is no marketing gimmick here—it’s the cornerstone. From vibrant, citrus-laced Chardonnays to the finely structured Pinots and a spicy Shiraz from their Heathcote sister estate, each wine told a clear, confident story. (Tasting notes to follow.)
But Mornington Peninsula had more to pour.
Paringa Estate
Next stop: Paringa Estate, Yabby Lake’s only peer in the region’s top echelon according to the WSET Diploma materials. Paringa’s origin story is a classic tale of vision—and a touch of madness. In 1984, geography teacher Lindsay McCall bought an old orchard with a bold idea: to plant Shiraz in what many deemed too cool a climate for ripening it. Conventional wisdom said he was dreaming. But Lindsay wasn’t chasing convention.
Planted on a north-facing slope using Lyre trellising to catch every ray of sun, his vines not only survived but thrived. Though Paringa’s Shiraz may not have the sun-saturated opulence of a Barossa bottle, it delivers finesse and aromatic complexity in spades. It was a gamble that paid off—in 1996, Lindsay left the classroom for the cellar, full-time.
Lindsay McCall, Paringa Estate
At the estate, we were welcomed by Nick Justice, the eloquent and passionate head of the Cellar Door. Even better, we had the rare privilege of meeting Lindsay himself—humble, sharp, and evidently still deeply hands-on. After a quick chat about the vintage, he tipped his hat, jumped into his truck, and rumbled off to tend to the day’s tasks. At 73, the fire clearly still burns.
Paringa’s wines are structured in three tiers:
Peninsula Series – crafted from leased plots across the region
Paringa Estate Series – fruit from their own estate vineyards
Single Vineyard Selection – the pinnacle, made only in exceptional years
Each wine, regardless of tier, displayed clarity, balance, and depth—a testament to decades of dedication. Detailed tasting notes will follow, but suffice to say: this is a winery that lets the land speak, with just enough winemaker intervention to coax out its clearest voice.
Yarra Elegance & Penfolds Power: From Cool-Climate Chardonnay to Australia’s Iconic Reds
15 April 2025 – Oakridge Winery, Yarra Valley; Adelaide
After our cool-climate explorations in Mornington Peninsula, the next day swept us into the heart of Yarra Valley for a Chardonnay Masterclass at Oakridge Winery. But before the first swirl of wine, we were greeted by a scene straight out of a luxury lifestyle magazine—a dazzling convoy of Ferraris preparing for a regional winery rally. It was an unexpected collision of horsepower and terroir, and the energy was infectious.
At Oakridge, technique and terroir come together with quiet confidence. The team works with wild yeast, cold fermentations, and a gentle hand to craft Chardonnays that are precise, textural, and bright with fruit. Many of the grapes are hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, and barrel-fermented—yet the oak is handled with restraint. Only 25–30% of the wines undergo malolactic fermentation to keep the acidity lively, and bâtonnage in stainless steel vessels adds creaminess without heaviness. While a few cuvées leaned a touch oak-forward, others were crisp and beautifully balanced—expressions of tropical fruit, citrus, and freshness.
Yarra Valley VineyardsVineyards of Yarra Yering
A light lunch at a neighboring winery allowed us to soak in the Yarra’s autumn palette—burnt orange vines sweeping across rolling hills. Then it was back to the road: Melbourne Airport, en route to Adelaide.
Cue chaos at Adelaide airport, but Nice Dinner. The rental car experience—through a company optimistically named “Bargain”—was less than streamlined. Confusion reigned, shuttles came and went like ghosts, but somehow we secured our SUV and made it to the Hilton Hotel just in time for dinner with Priscilla Hennekam—Brazilian-born wine consultant, influencer, and Australian wine insider. Over the stunning 2018 Tolpuddle Pinot Noir from Tasmania, Priscilla shared local intel—especially helpful given the Good Friday closures ahead in McLaren Vale. Smart tips, good conversation, and a memorable bottle—what more could we ask?
16 April – VIP Access at Penfolds’ Magill Estate
The next morning, the tone shifted from boutique to legendary as we arrived at Penfolds Magill Estate, just outside Adelaide. This visit wasn’t just a tasting—it was a tour de force. From Riesling to Grange, we experienced a masterclass in Australian winemaking heritage.
The Penfolds story begins back in 1844 when Mary and Dr Christopher Penfold arrived in Australia, and purchased a 500 acre estate where they created a medical surgery, vineyard, orchard and crops of wheat, barley and oats. That mixed farm was called the Grange.
In 1931, young Max Schubert came as a laboratory assistant, and he was transferred to Magill Estate in 1935 to help in winemaking. In the 1950s, he made a trip to Bordeaux, where his idea to create a “Grange Hermitage” was born. He began in 1951. Management was not very convinced, ordered him to stop the project in 1957, but Max Schubert secretly continued producing that wine.
He managed to convince a family member, Jeffrey Penfolds Hyland, who became his co-conspirator. Together, they managed to convince management to approve the production of the Grange Heritage, in time for the 1960 harvest. While Penfolds’ heart now beats mainly in Barossa, Magill is where the legend lives. The lineup:
White Wines
Clare Valley Riesling – Cellar Reserve (2021)
Stainless steel fermented, crackling with pronounced aromas of lime, lemon, lime zest, grapefruit, grapefruit zest and wet stone. Bone dry, razor-sharp acidity, medium+ finish. Textbook Clare Valley Riesling. TBM 91 points.
Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling
A Riesling with typical lime, lemon and citrus aromas, with a slightly gentler touch—tangerine and citrus blossom dominate. Medium (+) acidity. A beautifully aromatic and refreshing take on Riesling. TBM 91 points.
Bin 311 Chardonnay (2023)
Fruit from Tumbarumba (NSW), Tasmania, and Adelaide Hills. It seeks to express the style of a fruity cold-climate Chardonnay, rather than being terroir-driven. Depending on the vintage, fruit from other regions will be blended in to match the house style. Fermented in 225L oak barrels (30% new) with lees stirring, and matured 8 months in oak barrels, the wine opens with aromas of lemon, apple, pear and quince, along with floral and pear notes, underscored by lemon and subtle oak. Slight flinty note. Creamy texture, medium acidity. Elegant and approachable. TBM 92 points.
Reserve Bin 16A Chardonnay (2016) – Adelaide Hills
This Chardonnay is based upon fruit from Piccadilly Valley to Birdwood in Adelaide Hills, vineyards at an altitude of up to 611 meters. Thus, cold climate influences from altitude. The must is completely fermented in barrels and undergoes 100% malolactic conversion. This gives the wine a creamy, almost buttery note. Aromas of grapefruit, lime, bitter lemon, grapefruit zest, with a flinty and oyster note. A mineral Chardonnay, refined with judicious oak. Balanced, expressive, and deeply satisfying. TBM 93 points.
All Penfolds whites are produced at their Barossa facility, blending precision with polish.
Then came the reds, and Penfolds flexed its muscle:
Bin 23 Pinot Noir (2023)
Mostly destemmed Tasmanian fruit, with a touch of whole bunch. 8 months in French oak. Aromas of red cherry, red plum, raspberry, redcurrant – rather ripe fruit, but without turning to compote or jam, some notes of cigar box. Medium tannins, quite smooth, medium alcohol. This wine shows more body and structure than a classic European Pinot Noir, but without being heavy. Medium+ finish. Confident and compelling. TBM 92 points.
Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz (2018) – Barossa Valley
Bold and iron-rich, from soils packed with character. The fruit goes into static fermenters with header boards. After basket pressing, the wine continues fermenting and maturing in French and American oak (50% new, partly hogshead and partly puncheons of 500 litres) for 12 months. Aromas of blueberry, blackberry, juniper berry aromas, some pencil shavings, hints of roasted nuts. High but silky tannins, high alcohol—though possibly higher than the 14.5% label suggests (Australia permits a tolerance of 1.5% abv). Long finish. A classic, intense Barossa Valley Shiraz. TBM 94 points.
St. Henri Shiraz (2017)
The St Henri Shiraz is a multi-district blend from South Australia, with Shiraz fruit from Barossa Valley, Eden Valley, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Robe and Bordertown, and Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with header boards at Nuriootpa, some components are vinified at Magill Estate. The wine is matured for 12 months in large old vats to avoid imparting oak aromas and giving a round, but more elegant style. High tannins, chalky. Beautiful and vivid fruit – elderberry, mulberry and bramble, notes of liquorice, notes of roasted nuts. High alcohol, full body, long finish. Elegant power. TBM 95 points.
Bin 389 – “Baby Grange” (2022)
This is Australia’s third most collected wine (probably after Grande and Hill of Grace) —and it shows. Again a multi-district blend from South Australia: Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway, Robe, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Wrattonbully and Clare Valley. A Cabernet–Shiraz blend, fermented mainly in stainless steel tanks with header boards, but some components may ferment completely in barrel. Aged for 12 months in American oak hogsheads with 20-30% new oak and one- and two-year-old oak including ex-Grange barrels. Dark fruit (black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant) compote, with notes of chocolate, cedar, vanilla, medium acidity. High alcohol, high but fine grained tannins. Full body, long finish. Complex, layered, and deeply satisfying. TBM 96 points.
RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz (2020)
This wine is a “pure Barossa Valley” Shiraz, with fruit stemming from the Kalimna, Koonunga Hills, Moppa, Marananga and Ebenezer vineyards. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks with header boards, fermentation completed in barrels. In some vintages, vinification may be carried out partly at Magill Estate. Maturation 12 to 15 months in partly new (50-70%) French hogsheads (300 litres). Pronounced aromas of dark red and blue fruit, dark plum, blackberry, elderberry, black cherry, liquorice and pencil shavings. Dry, medium acidity, high tannins fine grained, high alcohol, full body and long finish. A marvellous wine that will improve with age, integrating the tannins even more and developing wonderful tertiary aromas. TBM 96 points.
Superblend Bin 802.B
This Superblend is made from two great wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 and the Grange. The blend consists of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Shiraz, which are co-fermented. There is also a Superblend Bin 802.A where the fruit is fermented separately and only blended following maturation. The wine matures in French oak for 15 months. Beautiful aromas, a bombastic wine. TBM 97 points.
Grange (2018)
The 2018 Grange is a monster. Shiraz from the best vineyards, with just a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (normally less than 5%, never more than 14%). Shiraz fruit comes from Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale and Magill Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon from Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and Padthaway.
Fermentation takes place in 10 tonne stainless steel tanks with header boards at Nuriootpa, 3 to 7 tonne open fermenters with wax lined/wooden header boards at Magill Estate. All components complete their fermentation in barrels. Maturation 18 to 20 months in American oak hogsheads (300 litres), followed by a two-year settling period in bottle.
Pronounced aromas of elderberry, dark cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, dried plum, dark chocolate, vanilla and so much more… Dry, medium acidity, high tannins that will benefit from more integration. High alcohol, full body, long finish. This wine is gigantic. Leading critics gave it 100 points. For me, as the tannins need to integrate a bit more, TBM 99 points.
Barossa Bound: From Kangoroo Steak to John Duval Elegance
Following our grand tasting at Penfolds, we hit the road toward the iconic Barossa Valley. The drive was striking—vast dry fields stretched endlessly, punctuated only by groves of eucalyptus. It felt like crossing a sunburned desert until we reached Tanunda, the beating heart of Barossa.
Our base: the Barossa Weintal Hotel—technically a motel, but well-equipped and conveniently located. We took the afternoon to prep for the coming days, reflect on the Penfolds and other prior experiences, and unwind. Dinner? A local gem where I sampled kangaroo steak for the first time—lean, tender, and unexpectedly refined, with venison vibes. We sipped a relaxed local red (no notes, just enjoyment).
Tasting John Duval Wines at Artisans of Barossa
With several wineries closed to the public and others shuttered for the holiday, we headed to Artisans of Barossa—a collaborative cellar door for boutique producers who don’t offer on-site tastings. While we couldn’t visit John Duval Wines in person, we were able to explore their lineup, which did not disappoint.
2023 Plexus White (41% Marsanne, 34% Roussanne, 25% Viognier)
Southern Rhône in spirit, but born in Barossa Valley. According to John Duval, 2023 marked the third La Niña vintage in a row—cool, late, and ideal for aromatic whites. The harvest took place on 3 March in Marananga, for Marsanne, on 16 March in Kalimna for Roussanne, and on 13 April for Viognier. The cooler year prompted a touch more Viognier in the blend to boost texture and aromatic lift.
The winemaking: Gentle pressings were combined with free run juice and cold settled. Fermentation commenced in stainless steel but some of the Marsanne finished fermentation in and was aged in puncheon until bottling in October. The remaining Marsanne and the Roussanne aged on lees in tank until bottling, to enhance the structure and texture of the wine. 20% of the total blend aged in fine-grain French oak for a total of 7 months.
Medium lemon color, pronounced aromas of apple, pear, quince, honeymelon, gooseberry, herbaceous notes, asparagus, and notes of brioche and cedar wood. A dry wine with medium acidity, medium alcohol, medium body and medium finish. On the palate, the flavours were green apple, asparagus, gooseberry, with a touch of cedar wood. A good quality wine, good complexity, good balance between aromas, acidity and alcohol making it better than acceptable. It lacks concentration and length, and therefore I cannot consider it as very good or outstanding. TBM 86 points.
2022 Compono Cabernet Sauvignon
The fruit for this wine stems from the following regions: 64% in Moppa (Barossa Valley, 340m elevation), and 36% Eden Valley (adjacent to Henschke’s Hill of Grace and Edelstone vineyards).
The winemaking – citing John Duval’s website – consisted of small batch fermentation in open top stainless steel fermenters. Twice daily plunging and/or pump overs with skin contact for 8 days. Maturation in French oak hogsheads (20% new) for 15 months.
Clear medium ruby, clean aromas of medium (+) intensity of cassis, blackberry, black cherry, black plum, cherry compote, caramel, vanilla, wet stone/rock salt, with a smoky note. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium tannins fine grained, high alcohol, medium (+) body and a medium (+) finish. Medium (+) intensity of flavours showed black cherry, blackberry, caramel, cherry compote, notes of minerality and a hint of smokiness. This is a very good wine, with good complexity, good balance between aromas, acidity and alcohol, thus clearly better than acceptable. The wine shows a good concentration. It is overall a well balanced and rather elegant, typical Cabernet Sauvignon from Barossa Valley. It lacks a bit of length, otherwise I could consider it outstanding. TBM 91 points.
2022 Plexus Red (43% Shiraz, 41% Grenache, 16% Mataro)
John Duval chose to launch the label with this wine owing to his love of old vine expressions of Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre. It features as one of only 100 wines in the Langtons Classification of Australian Wine. The Shiraz component stems from old vineyards at Krondorf, Marananga and Ebenezer. Grenache comes from vineyards at Tanunda, Moppa and Ebenezer, and Mourvèdre from Light Pass and Ebenezer. The parcels of fruit were fermented separately, some with a submerged cap in small open stainless-steel fermenters. A portion of the Grenache ferment included whole bunches to accentuate the savoury aspects of the variety. Maturation of the wines takes place in barrel for 15 months, with 10% in new fine grain French oak hogsheads and the balance in older seasoned hogsheads.
Clear medium ruby colour. Pronounced aromas of ripe fruit – dark cherry, cranberry, blueberry, ripe blue plum, blue plum compote, smoky notes, some cedar wood, tobacco, and a hint of eucalyptus. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium tannins fine grained, high alcohol, medium (+) body and a long finish. The flavors are of pronounced intensity, boasting ripe dark cherry, ripe blue plum, blue plum compote, cinnamon, smoky notes, dark chocolate. This is an outstanding wine, with great complexity of aromas, very good concentration, a good balance between the ripe and cooked fruit on the one hand and the acidity and the alcohol on the other. All of these elements make the wine much better than acceptable or good. The tannins integrate very well, and are really smooth. This merits, in my opinion, to consider this wine as being of outstanding quality. TBM 94 points.
Final Thoughts
Even without a visit to the winery, John Duval’s wines spoke volumes. From the Rhône-inspired Plexus white to the brooding, elegant red blend, each bottle showcased a master’s touch. The Compono Cabernet stands out—pure Barossa sophistication—and the Plexus red confirmed why Duval is still one of Australia’s winemaking greats.
2013 Malbec Achaval Ferrer, Mendoza, Argentina.
Opening this bottle was a challenge, the cork did not really want to come off – the Durand helped. The first sniff and sip gave the impression of a grumpy, tired Argentinian: he was really upset to be disturbed and asked to perform a tango dance.
Deep and obscure ruby color. In the nose, the initial aromas I found were dried plum, blueberry compote, smoky, with a touch of Brettanomyces. The wine was quite closed, also on the palate. So I decided to give it time to wake up and breathe.
An hour and a half later, the wine resembled a man who just lit a cigarette, still not ready to dance, but at least willing to talk… And yet another half hour later, he danced! Beautiful aromas of dark red and black fruit, blackberry, dried plum, blueberry compote, cigar box, smoky note, but the Brett note gone.
On the palate, the 2013 Malbec Achaval Ferrer is dry, with medium acidity. The tannins are nicely integrated and fine grained. Alcohol is high, the body is full and it has a rather long finish. A really nice tango indeed that it finally showed. TBM 90 points.
2018 Ch Gruaud Larose – finally a nice Bordeaux again. Recently, I had to taste lots of nice wines, during an intensive seminar lasting ten days. Mostly, we had to decide mostly between “good” and “very good”, whereas we had some discussion whether a certain wine should be called “outstanding”. It was such a relief now to open a wine that is clearly “outstanding” – without any doubt.
Deep ruby color. Pronounced aromas (absolutely delicious) of dark red fruit like dark cherry, dark plum, blackberry, blueberry, with notes of vanilla, cigar box, chocolate and much much more… On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium acidity. It has pronounced tannins that are slightly chalky, medium alcohol, full body and a long finish. 2018 Ch Gruaud Larose boasts flavors on the palate of dark cherry, dark plum, blackberry, chocolate and more. An absolute delight, opened several years to early – it will definitely improve, tannins will integrate and it will develop lovely tertiary aromas if given time. So definitely suitable for bottle ageing. TBM 93 points.
Tasting with Jancis Robinson MW on 18 October 2024
When you are getting involved in the world of wine, you notice that the more you try and learn, the more you perceive that you know little and need to study a lot. Together with colleagues with whom I am studying for the DipWSET at the Austrian Wine Academy, I had the privilege to participate in a great tasting of 17 great wines, selected and explained by Jancis Robinson MW. This was preceded by a signing of her 5th edition of the Oxford Companion to Wine, a compendium not to be missed by any wine lovers. What a fantastic experience this was!
What was tasted?
Nyetimber, Brut “Tillington Single Vineyard” 2014, West Sussex, England. A great sparkling wine that outshines many Champagnes.
Danbury Ridge Wine Estate, Chardonnay 2021, Essex, England. A bit heavily oaked for my taste, great acidity.
Estate Argyros, Santorini “Cuvée Monsignori”, 2020, Santorini, Greece. An Assyrtiko allegedly made from 200 year old vines. No oak. Very nice wine.
The Sadie Family Wines, Skerpioen 2022, Swartland, South Africa. Vineyard close to the coast, beautiful Chenin Blanc with some Palomino.
Niepoort Vinhos, Tiara 2021, Douro, Portugal. A white wine, made from white Port varieties, aged 12 months in oak. Long fermentation.
Bodegas Cota 45, Agostado Cortado 2017, Spain. An unfortified Sherry made from Permo, Uva Rey and 20% Palomino. 6 months under flor, 40 months aged on the lees. The flor disappears naturally without fortification. A delicious alternative to Palo Cortados. 14% ABV.
Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, Riesling Spätlese “Abtsberg, Metesdorf” 2023, Mosel, Germany. Maximin von Schubert makes wonderful Rieslings, this one (a bit too young) is no exception. Light, refreshing, Mosel at its best. Very pale, very young, nicely balanced. Only 7% ABV.
Sanchez Romate, Palo Cortado “Escondido 1/12”, Jerez, Spain. A typical, nice Palo Cortado, 15 years old. 12 barrels (butts) made, pure Palomino.
Racines Wines, Pinot Noir “Sanford & Benedict Vineyard” 2020, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, USA. Vineyards planted in the 1970s and ’80s. 2/3 whole bunch pressing. 19 months matured in oak. Nicely balanced wine. Not allowed to call themselves Santa Rita Hills because of a conflict with Chile pretending Santa Rita was theirs first… So it’s Sta. Rita.
Bodegas Campos Eliseo – François Lurton, Contracorriente 2023, Toro, Spain. François Lurton is swimming against the stream (contra corriente), presenting a Tempranillo that is more elegant, a bit gamey on the nose. Organic viticulture. No oak. Densely planted (6.000 vines/ha.).
Domaine de Cébène, Les Bancèls 2020, Faugères, Languedoc, France. Made by the oenologue of the Bad Boy of Thunevin. Mainly Syrah, with some Grenache and Carignan. Vineyard on schist, on north facing slope (escaping a bit the global warming issues). Rather tannic, but nice.
Ridge Vineyard, Zinfandel “Pagani Ranch” 2022, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA. Vineyards northwest of Sonoma town. Old vines that were never pulled out – stemming from pre-prohibition times. 82% Zinfandel, with some Alicante Bouschet and a bit Mourvèdre. 14 months in oak barrels. A great wine, leaves the palate clean and fresh. Ridge Vineyards is one of the few wineries that lists all ingredients on the back label.
Vina Don Melchor, Don Melchor 2017, Puente Alto, Alto Maipo Valley, Chile. The flagship of the Concha y Toro group (Don Melchor Concha y Toro was the founder of the group). Gravel soil, well drained. Comparable to Pauillac. Vines more than 30 years old, Cabernet Sauvignon. Stays 15 months in oak barrels (2/3 new). The Andes provide some cooling at night. 14,5% ABV.
Bodega Mendel, Unus 2010, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina. A small winery, basically a “one man’s work” from Lujan de Cujo. Old Malbec vines, late harvest and blended. 15 months in oak (50% new). Very nice wine. 14,5% ABV.
Château Suduiraut, Château Suduiraut 2017, Sauternes, France. This AXA-owned winery, neighbour to Yquem, produces lovely sweet wines, and this was no exception. 140 gr residual sugar. Extremely low yields (only 10hl/ha), harvested by passing through the vineyards several times. 18 months in oak. Just wonderful, but a bit young.
Les Vins Parce Frères, Rivesaltes Ambré “20 ans d’âge” 2002, Rivesaltes, Roussillon, France. Made with Grenache gris, Grenache white and Macabéu (Viura), this fortified wines aged in oak (not entirely filled for some oxidative “Rancio” notes) for 20 years, boasting nice sweet walnut notes and more. Great and rare experience.
2018 Numero Uno When we hear the word “appassimento” of grapes, we immediately think first of all of Amarone, from Veneto, Italy. After the harvest, the grapes are dried, they may lose 30% or more of their liquid. This concentrates the aromas, the sugars and the acidity.
But – did you know that winemakers used this process centuries earlier than for Amarone? In the Valtellina, Lombardy, Italy, this method of preparing the grapes prior to fermentation was used since the XVIth century for the grape called Chiavennasca. Chiavennasca is better known under its name Nebbiolo, the most noble grape of Italy.
The result of this appassimento are the so-called Sforzato, or Sfursat, wines. The Plozza winery has re-interpreted the appassimento process when it created this 2018 Numero Uno. The wine is made from very old vines (more than 50 years old) from the best vineyard sites of the Valtellina. The grapes for the Numero Uno dry for only two months, followed by fermentation in stainless steel. The wine then matures for 18 to 24 Monate in new barriques of French oak.
The result is a powerful, but elegant wine. Pale ruby color. In the nose, you find complex and delicious aromas of dark red fruit, blackberry compote, redcurrant, black plum and much much more. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, tannins of fine grain that are nicely present but integrated, high alcohol (17%) and full body. The finish is long and very pleasant. A really marvellous wine! TBM 94 pontos.
2021 MilleX Promesse Rouge is a red wine from the AOP Costières de Nimes. This is an AOP in the South of the Rhône valley in Southern France. The wine is made by the Vignerons Créateurs, a combine of several wineries in Southern France. It earned its name from the fact that the vineyards are located in Jonquières-St-Vincent. Indicated by the Xth mile marker on the Via Domitia, which is an ancient roman road linking Spain and Italy. The marker thus indicates that it is exactly X (=10) roman miles from the city of Nimes.
The cuvée of this expressive wine is a blend of Syrah and Grenache – typical Southern Rhône red grape varieties. It has a dark ruby color. In the nose, aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, dark plum, cinnamon, blueberry, cedar wood, vanilla and pepper. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, high alcohol, well integrated tannins, well bodied and a pleasant and long finish.
The 2021 MilleX Promesse Rouge is a truly nice and powerful red wine.
2022 MilleX Promesse Blanc is a white wine from the AOP Costières de Nimes. This is an AOP in the South of the Rhône valley in Southern France. The wine is made by the Vignerons Créateurs, a combine of several wineries in Southern France. It earned its name from the fact that the vineyards are located in Jonquières-St-Vincent. Indicated by the Xth mile marker on the Via Domitia, which is an ancient roman road linking Spain and Italy. The marker thus indicates that it is exactly X (=10) roman miles from the city of Nimes.
The cuvée of this expressive wine is a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Rolle – typical Southern Rhône grape varieties. It has a straw color with a slight golden touch. In the nose, aromas of flowers, herbs, pear, honey melon and honeysuckle. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium alcohol and medium body and a pleasant and long finish.
The 2022 MilleX Promesse Blanc is a very nice white wine.
Off we went, Google Maps as our guide. The roads were charming but slow—later we discovered the “avoid highways” setting was the culprit. The route was scenic but dry, with scrubby fields that made us question the viability of viticulture in this arid stretch. But as we neared Curlewis, the landscape softened. Vines emerged. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—cool-climate varietals—thrived here under drip irrigation.
poured the wines themselves. Tastings came in sleek “test tubes” – 30ml samples just right for swirling, sniffing, and sipping. Standouts included a crisp, elegant Chardonnay and an expressive Estate Pinot Noir. We bought a bottle of each.
From the moment we stepped into the winery, it was clear this was more than just a scenic detour—it was a masterclass in precision and passion.
our host for the tasting, was not only warm and welcoming but also impressively informed (WSET Level 3-certified, as it turns out). She walked us through a series of Yabby Lake’s wines, tracing the origin of each to its specific parcel. Terroir is no marketing gimmick here—it’s the cornerstone. From vibrant, citrus-laced Chardonnays to the finely structured Pinots and a spicy Shiraz from their Heathcote sister estate, each wine told a clear, confident story. (Tasting notes to follow.)
Planted on a north-facing slope using Lyre trellising to catch every ray of sun, his vines not only survived but thrived. Though Paringa’s Shiraz may not have the sun-saturated opulence of a Barossa bottle, it delivers finesse and aromatic complexity in spades. It was a gamble that paid off—in 1996, Lindsay left the classroom for the cellar, full-time.
This visit wasn’t just a tasting—it was a tour de force. From Riesling to Grange, we experienced a masterclass in Australian winemaking heritage.
The winemaking – citing John Duval’s website – consisted of small batch fermentation in open top stainless steel fermenters. Twice daily plunging and/or pump overs with skin contact for 8 days. Maturation in French oak hogsheads (20% new) for 15 months. 
Clear medium ruby colour. Pronounced aromas of ripe fruit – dark cherry, cranberry, blueberry, ripe blue plum, blue plum compote, smoky notes, some cedar wood, tobacco, and a hint of eucalyptus. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium tannins fine grained, high alcohol, medium (+) body and a long finish. The flavors are of pronounced intensity, boasting ripe dark cherry, ripe blue plum, blue plum compote, cinnamon, smoky notes, dark chocolate. This is an outstanding wine, with great complexity of aromas, very good concentration, a good balance between the ripe and cooked fruit on the one hand and the acidity and the alcohol on the other. All of these elements make the wine much better than acceptable or good. The tannins integrate very well, and are really smooth. This merits, in my opinion, to consider this wine as being of outstanding quality. TBM 94 points.
