Tastings by Michael

November 12, 2024November 13, 2024

2013 Malbec Achaval Ferrer

2013 Malbec Achaval Ferrer, Mendoza, Argentina.
Opening this bottle was a challenge, the cork did not really want to come off – the Durand helped. The first sniff and sip gave the impression of a grumpy, tired Argentinian: he was really upset to be disturbed and asked to perform a tango dance.

Deep and obscure ruby color. In the nose, the initial aromas I found were dried plum, blueberry compote, smoky, with a touch of Brettanomyces. The wine was quite closed, also on the palate. So I decided to give it time to wake up and breathe.

An hour and a half later, the wine resembled a man who just lit a cigarette, still not ready to dance, but at least willing to talk… And yet another half hour later, he danced! Beautiful aromas of dark red and black fruit, blackberry, dried plum, blueberry compote, cigar box, smoky note, but the Brett note gone.

On the palate, the 2013 Malbec Achaval Ferrer is dry, with medium acidity. The tannins are nicely integrated and fine grained. Alcohol is high, the body is full and it has a rather long finish. A really nice tango indeed that it finally showed. TBM 90 points.

October 27, 2024November 1, 2024

2018 Ch Gruaud Larose

2018 Ch Gruaud Larose – finally a nice Bordeaux again. Recently, I had to taste lots of nice wines, during an intensive seminar lasting ten days. Mostly, we had to decide mostly between “good” and “very good”, whereas we had some discussion whether a certain wine should be called “outstanding”. It was such a relief now to open a wine that is clearly “outstanding” – without any doubt.

Deep ruby color. Pronounced aromas (absolutely delicious) of dark red fruit like dark cherry, dark plum, blackberry, blueberry, with notes of vanilla, cigar box, chocolate and much much more… On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium acidity. It has pronounced tannins that are slightly chalky, medium alcohol, full body and a long finish. 2018 Ch Gruaud Larose boasts flavors on the palate of dark cherry, dark plum, blackberry, chocolate and more. An absolute delight, opened several years to early – it will definitely improve, tannins will integrate and it will develop lovely tertiary aromas if given time. So definitely suitable for bottle ageing. TBM 93 points.

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October 18, 2024November 1, 2024

Tasting with Jancis Robinson MW

Tasting with Jancis Robinson MW on 18 October 2024

When you are getting involved in the world of wine, you notice that the more you try and learn, the more you perceive that you know little and need to study a lot. Together with colleagues with whom I am studying for the DipWSET at the Austrian Wine Academy, I had the privilege to participate in a great tasting of 17 great wines, selected and explained by Jancis Robinson MW. This was preceded by a signing of her 5th edition of the Oxford Companion to Wine, a compendium not to be missed by any wine lovers. What a fantastic experience this was!

What was tasted?

1. Nyetimber, Brut “Tillington Single Vineyard” 2014, West Sussex, England. A great sparkling wine that outshines many Champagnes.
2. Danbury Ridge Wine Estate, Chardonnay 2021, Essex, England. A bit heavily oaked for my taste, great acidity.
3. Kumeu River Wines, Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2017, Kumeu, New Zealand. A wine made by Michael Brajkovich MW in a Burgundy style.
4. Estate Argyros, Santorini “Cuvée Monsignori”, 2020, Santorini, Greece. An Assyrtiko allegedly made from 200 year old vines. No oak. Very nice wine.
5. The Sadie Family Wines, Skerpioen 2022, Swartland, South Africa. Vineyard close to the coast, beautiful Chenin Blanc with some Palomino.
6. Niepoort Vinhos, Tiara 2021, Douro, Portugal. A white wine, made from white Port varieties, aged 12 months in oak. Long fermentation.
7. Bodegas Cota 45, Agostado Cortado 2017, Spain. An unfortified Sherry made from Permo, Uva Rey and 20% Palomino. 6 months under flor, 40 months aged on the lees. The flor disappears naturally without fortification. A delicious alternative to Palo Cortados. 14% ABV.
8. Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, Riesling Spätlese “Abtsberg, Metesdorf” 2023, Mosel, Germany. Maximin von Schubert makes wonderful Rieslings, this one (a bit too young) is no exception. Light, refreshing, Mosel at its best. Very pale, very young, nicely balanced. Only 7% ABV.
9. Sanchez Romate, Palo Cortado “Escondido 1/12”, Jerez, Spain. A typical, nice Palo Cortado, 15 years old. 12 barrels (butts) made, pure Palomino.
10. Racines Wines, Pinot Noir “Sanford & Benedict Vineyard” 2020, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, USA. Vineyards planted in the 1970s and ’80s. 2/3 whole bunch pressing. 19 months matured in oak. Nicely balanced wine. Not allowed to call themselves Santa Rita Hills because of a conflict with Chile pretending Santa Rita was theirs first… So it’s Sta. Rita.
11. Bodegas Campos Eliseo – François Lurton, Contracorriente 2023, Toro, Spain. François Lurton is swimming against the stream (contra corriente), presenting a Tempranillo that is more elegant, a bit gamey on the nose. Organic viticulture. No oak. Densely planted (6.000 vines/ha.).
12. Domaine de Cébène, Les Bancèls 2020, Faugères, Languedoc, France. Made by the oenologue of the Bad Boy of Thunevin. Mainly Syrah, with some Grenache and Carignan. Vineyard on schist, on north facing slope (escaping a bit the global warming issues). Rather tannic, but nice.
13. Ridge Vineyard, Zinfandel “Pagani Ranch” 2022, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA. Vineyards northwest of Sonoma town. Old vines that were never pulled out – stemming from pre-prohibition times. 82% Zinfandel, with some Alicante Bouschet and a bit Mourvèdre. 14 months in oak barrels. A great wine, leaves the palate clean and fresh. Ridge Vineyards is one of the few wineries that lists all ingredients on the back label.
14. Vina Don Melchor, Don Melchor 2017, Puente Alto, Alto Maipo Valley, Chile. The flagship of the Concha y Toro group (Don Melchor Concha y Toro was the founder of the group). Gravel soil, well drained. Comparable to Pauillac. Vines more than 30 years old, Cabernet Sauvignon. Stays 15 months in oak barrels (2/3 new). The Andes provide some cooling at night. 14,5% ABV.
15. Bodega Mendel, Unus 2010, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina. A small winery, basically a “one man’s work” from Lujan de Cujo. Old Malbec vines, late harvest and blended. 15 months in oak (50% new). Very nice wine. 14,5% ABV.
16. Château Suduiraut, Château Suduiraut 2017, Sauternes, France. This AXA-owned winery, neighbour to Yquem, produces lovely sweet wines, and this was no exception. 140 gr residual sugar. Extremely low yields (only 10hl/ha), harvested by passing through the vineyards several times. 18 months in oak. Just wonderful, but a bit young.
17. Les Vins Parce Frères, Rivesaltes Ambré “20 ans d’âge” 2002, Rivesaltes, Roussillon, France. Made with Grenache gris, Grenache white and Macabéu (Viura), this fortified wines aged in oak (not entirely filled for some oxidative “Rancio” notes) for 20 years, boasting nice sweet walnut notes and more. Great and rare experience.

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September 29, 2024November 1, 2024

2018 Numero Uno

2018 Numero Uno When we hear the word “appassimento” of grapes, we immediately think first of all of Amarone, from Veneto, Italy. After the harvest, the grapes are dried, they may lose 30% or more of their liquid. This concentrates the aromas, the sugars and the acidity.

But – did you know that winemakers used this process centuries earlier than for Amarone? In the Valtellina, Lombardy, Italy, this method of preparing the grapes prior to fermentation was used since the XVIth century for the grape called Chiavennasca. Chiavennasca is better known under its name Nebbiolo, the most noble grape of Italy.

The result of this appassimento are the so-called Sforzato, or Sfursat, wines. The Plozza winery has re-interpreted the appassimento process when it created this 2018 Numero Uno. The wine is made from very old vines (more than 50 years old) from the best vineyard sites of the Valtellina. The grapes for the Numero Uno dry for only two months, followed by fermentation in stainless steel. The wine then matures for 18 to 24 Monate in new barriques of French oak.

The result is a powerful, but elegant wine. Pale ruby color. In the nose, you find complex and delicious aromas of dark red fruit, blackberry compote, redcurrant, black plum and much much more. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, tannins of fine grain that are nicely present but integrated, high alcohol (17%) and full body. The finish is long and very pleasant. A really marvellous wine!
TBM 94 pontos.

March 15, 2024March 17, 2024

2021 MilleX Promesse Rouge

2021 MilleX Promesse Rouge is a red wine from the AOP Costières de Nimes. This is an AOP in the South of the Rhône valley in Southern France. The wine is made by the Vignerons Créateurs, a combine of several wineries in Southern France. It earned its name from the fact that the vineyards are located in Jonquières-St-Vincent. Indicated by the Xth mile marker on the Via Domitia, which is an ancient roman road linking Spain and Italy. The marker thus indicates that it is exactly X (=10) roman miles from the city of Nimes.

The cuvée of this expressive wine is a blend of Syrah and Grenache – typical Southern Rhône red grape varieties. It has a dark ruby color. In the nose, aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, dark plum, cinnamon, blueberry, cedar wood, vanilla and pepper. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, high alcohol, well integrated tannins, well bodied and a pleasant and long finish.

The 2021 MilleX Promesse Rouge is a truly nice and powerful red wine.

TBM 90 points.

March 15, 2024March 17, 2024

2022 MilleX Promesse Blanc

2022 MilleX Promesse Blanc is a white wine from the AOP Costières de Nimes. This is an AOP in the South of the Rhône valley in Southern France. The wine is made by the Vignerons Créateurs, a combine of several wineries in Southern France. It earned its name from the fact that the vineyards are located in Jonquières-St-Vincent. Indicated by the Xth mile marker on the Via Domitia, which is an ancient roman road linking Spain and Italy. The marker thus indicates that it is exactly X (=10) roman miles from the city of Nimes.

The cuvée of this expressive wine is a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Rolle – typical Southern Rhône grape varieties. It has a straw color with a slight golden touch. In the nose, aromas of flowers, herbs, pear, honey melon and honeysuckle. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium alcohol and medium body and a pleasant and long finish.

The 2022 MilleX Promesse Blanc is a very nice white wine.

TBM 88 points.

March 15, 2024

2020 Terra Caillou Clairette

The 2020 Terra Caillou Clairette de Bellegarde is a very nice white wine from the South of France, made with the Clairette grape. It is made by the Vignerons Créateurs, a combination of different wineries from the South of France. Clairette de Bellegarde is an AOC (now AOP) since 1949, for wines made entirely with the Clairette grape. The wine is certified organic.

Straw color with silvery reflexes. In the nose, you have lovely aromas of linden tree flowers, pear, honey and peach. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium + acidity, full body, medium alcohol and a long and pleasant finish.

The 2020 Terra Caillou Clairette de Bellegarde is a special white wine. I really liked it.

TBM 90 points.

March 15, 2024

2022 Costières de Nimes

The 2022 Costières de Nimes rouge is a red wine made from the grapes Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Marselan. The winery is Domaine des Grès Rouge, which is part of the Vignerons Créateurs, which combines different winemakers from the South of France. The Domaine is situated in the Southern part of the Rhône Valley.

The wine shows an intense ruby color. In the first nose, you have blackcurrant, violet and recurrant, on the second note also black cherry, vanilla, blue plum, as well as notes of licorice and herbs like rosmary. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, high alcohol, a medium + body and medium tannins.

Overall, 2022 Costières de Nimes is a powerful wine with a nice and rather long finish. For the lovers of bold red wines.

TBM 86 points.

December 17, 2023December 17, 2023

2015 Cruà Basilisco

2015 Cruà Basilisco, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG, Basilicata, Italy. Aglianico is a typical grape for the South of Italy. You find it in Taurasi DOC from Campania and additionally in Basilicata where it presents itself as Aglianico del Vulture DOCG, and additionally as Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG.

Basilisco is a traditional winery that has around 20 hectares of vineyards at the majestic Vulture volcano. Their vineyards are at an altitude of 450 to 600 meters above sea level. They face South East, therefore providing the warmth that the vines need without being exposed too much to the South or South West where it may be too hot. Their viticulture is in the “capanno” style, thus jointly with fruit and olive trees – a very traditional style of viticulture. Organic certification.

The 2015 Cruà Basilisco wine is made with grapes from old vines from a single vineyard. Harvesting is entirely manual. Basilisco produced only 1.500 bottles of this wine! This is a powerful and very expressive wine, really good. Intense ruby color. In the nose, complex aromas of dark fruit – particularly black cherry, black plum, blackberry, with notes of eucalyptus and herbs. On the palate, the wine is dry, with medium acidity, very nicely integrated but noticeable tannins, medium alcohol. Long and pleasant finish. TBM 91 pontos.

November 20, 2023November 28, 2023

2016 Tronquoy-Lalande

The 2016 Tronquoy-Lalande, St. Estèphe, Bordeaux, France, is the property of the Bouygues brothers. They made a lot of money in telecommunications and internet and invested in several great vineyards and wineries. Even if this wine is not a Grand Cru Classé, it is an excellent and very tasty wine. They call the wine a Cru hors classe, because it is not a classified wine, but it has the main characteristics of a Grand Cru Classé. Since 2018, the winery dropped the part “Lalande” of the name, henceforth, the wine is just called Château Tronquoy.

Intense ruby color. In the nose, intense and complex aromas of black fruit – black cherry, black plum, cassis, with notes of vanilla and leather. On the palate, the 2016 Tronquoy-Lalande is dry, with Medium acidity. The alcohol is high, it has a full body and firm but already nicely integrated tannins. Long finish. With more maturity, the tannins will integrate even more and make this wine even better. I really liked it. TBM 92 points.

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